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The Kersh's Korner: Bars in Florence
Part 1

Helen Kershaw from Manchester, the best StudentsVille's nightlife expert By Helen Kershaw(Manchester, UK)
Email:elen_kershaw@hotmail.co.uk

>> Visit also: "The Kersh's Korner: Bars in Florence :: Part 2"

Kitsch
[Piazza Beccaria Area]

This quirky “sophist-artistic” tribute to the finer details which make for an intriguing evening retreat is a gem of a bar offering a kaleidoscopic plethora of delicious cocktails and a famed aperitivo to match the variety of its’ drinks menu.
Situated just inside the centro storico on the angle of Piazza Beccaria, there is no doubt that this already over-patronised bar would be even more rammed if it was positioned more centrally. Aperitivo here is unmatchable in Florence for quality and quantity with a range of cold and hot dishes (served by the in-house chef!), and for the few remaining smokers in Florence, there is a covered (and in winter, heated) seating area located directly outside where you can sit to enjoy your food.

The big shame about Kitsch is that as a venue for later in the evening, it all too frequently gets overlooked, probably owing to its location being just that little bit further away than more central venues like Moyo and Noir. However, unlike these ‘en vogue’ venues, Kitsch does not suffer from swarms of the self-dubbed chic of the city. All in all, a great place to start an evening out with a fabulous drink- a definite “must-go”.

Café Sant’Ambrogio [Sant'Ambrogio district]

Characterised by the many local Florentines who spill out onto the outdoor tables adjacent to the bar in summer, this bar has a special place in the writer’s heart after many an evening spent falling asleep to the droning tones of the spontaneous guitarists and carefree chatter which filtered through her window from the steps outside the church which accompanies Café Sant’Ambrogio in the small piazza of the self-same name. The striking thing about this place is that there is always something interesting to observe, be it one of the odd, local ‘celebrities’ or general goings-on.

The bar itself offers a wide range good wines in generous size glasses and at great prices. The bar staff are very efficient and friendly, a rarity in other unnamed venues, and the aperitivo, whilst limited and seldom varied, is tasty and replenished frequently. Unlikely to be a destination bar for those who live outside of the Santa Croce zone, it remains the type of bar which has accrued a loyal fan base over the years owing to its open amicability, and will continue to amass more regulars over the years to come.

Café Sant’Ambrogio is also open daily and offers snacks, and wireless internet upon production of identification.

REX Café [Sant'Ambrogio district]

REX is currently celebrating 15 years of success and it is easy to see why. This place boasts some of the finest bar staff in Florence whose experience and skill pay credence to the exceptional drinks they serve. With a wide range of ‘nights’ including live music and the like to complement the Gaudi-inspired interior, there is such an easy, comfortable atmosphere, thankfully as yet unspoilt by grimy sycophants.

The main selling feature of REX has to be its interior. Paintings by local artists cover the two side walls and are on sale, whilst the intriguing back wall is an exposed contorted iron masterpiece map of the world. The bar is a beautiful circular mosaic island and truly is the heart of this great place.

Aperitivo here, like most bars is limited to small snacky bits, but on some nights of the week, these same small bites evolve exotically and it would not be unusual to find oysters laid out ever-so-casually on the bar.

Please don’t go to this bar if you are in the slightest bit poncey. You’ll enjoy it, but you’ll ruin the great atmosphere. Good conversation and a good laugh with good friends are order of the day at REX.

Moyo [Santa Croce district]

Moyo has unfortunately suffered of late, owing to Florence’s increasingly austere drinking regulations, however the stringent policing being operated in the vicinity have not deterred Moyo fans from going back and doing what they do best: be seen.

As a bar, it is, in fact, very good. During the day, it is the perfect central location to check your email or study online (free wireless). It has a flawless interior and layout making it an obvious choice for those who are concerned with their peripheries, yet offers more substance beneath the surface in terms of quality of service and a comprehensive albeit simplistic aperitivo. Music is also very fitting to the mood of the night, and consistently remains crowd-pleasing stuff.

As with most places, there is a downside, and Moyo’s is that it gets ridiculously crowded. If you can get a table early in the night, fantastic. Otherwise, you may be in for an uncomfortable squash between the herds of guys who flock here looking to pick up chicks, and the girls who are people watching wanting to be picked up. That said, definitely worth a visit if only to put your face on the map.

Twice [Santa Croce district]

…is nice. Or is it? Contentiously, I have pondered over this bar/discotheque since its opening in 2006. As a concept, I think it’s great. It offers an aperitivo, but its real strength is its ability to attract a large crowd from 10pm onwards, where it is a free-entry bar/club playing popular music from a range of genres; of note is its’ weekly Hip Hop night which is always hot and sweaty and full of guys and gals who are there to really dance and have fun.

As they say, it’s the people that make a place, and this is most certainly one of those places. On the right night, you don’t want to leave. On others, you stay ten minutes, find it dull and then try again later to find it unchanged. One thing that is consistent though is the perfect blend between young Florentines and foreign students. Violence is obsolete, and security and management are friendly and efficient.

Twice can also be hired as a venue for anything from small parties to full blown fashion shows (which it works very well for). It is good fun and safe, but I think this writer is getting a little old to cope with the young movers and shakers until all hours nowadays.

The Lion’s Fountain [Santa Croce district]

Exceptionally popular with foreigners and locals alike, you, like I, will love this pub if you are looking for that homely feel that only an Irish pub can give. The bar staff are a team of legends who are always chatty and plugging you with their very own “Upload” shots (beware: these shots are lethal). Hosting karaoke nights and showing more or less EVERY world sports event, it’s a great place to knock back a few pints either by day or by night in good company.

It’s location is perfect for stumbling on to anywhere, owing to its central position in the Santa Croce zone. A real easy-come, easy-go pub, it has an addictive charm that you will fall for time and again.

>> Visit also: "The Kersh's Korner: Bars in Florence :: Part 2"

(September 2007- Written by Helen Kershaw from Manchester, England )

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